| Ask Yourself... | Consider your options... | ...and if you don't |
| Do the roof, eavestroughts, downspouts and grading direct surface water away from the house? | Repair or replace a leaky roof. Ensure that eavestroughs and downspouts with extensions direct water away from the building. Slope the grade away from the house. | A poor rain drainage system will continue to provide a large volume of water that can leak in or overwhelm basement drainage system. |
| Do window wells drain freely? | Install drainage below window wells. | Water may accumulate in the wells, leading to possible leakage into the basement through or around the window. |
| Does water leak in through cracks in the foundation wall or floor? | patch small cracks from inside with cement-based material or use an injection-type foundation repair system. Fill large cracks from inside (and outside if possible) with "hydroscopic" material that expands as it dries. Consult a structural engineer or basement specialist concerning multiple, severe or expanding cracks. | Water may penetrate cracks, continue to deteriorate the existing house, affect IAQ and any proposed renovations. Severe or active cracks may be an indication of future stuructural problems or even present unsafe conditions. Without exterior protection and drainage, water will eventually find its way inside. |
Are there any pools of water on the floor or damp spots on the walls? Is there a working floor drain at the lowest point of the floor? Is there a working sump pump in a covered sump pit? Has the basement ever flooded? | Dampproof or waterproof the outside of the foundation walls. Install a perimeter drainage system. Install a floor drain with a trap and a sump pump in a covered pit. Make sure that the sump cover is tightly sealed. If future flooding seems unavoidable, do not install interior insulation or finishes that will be damaged by water. | Without a floor drain, any water spilled inside can't get out. Working sump pumps may help, but open pits can be another source of humidity and soil gases. If future flooding is possible, interior insulation and finishes give mold a place to grow and will cause more difficulty and expense in flood cleanup |
| Is there a complete concrete floor? | Install a concrete floor over a sealed polyethylene moisture barrier. | Dirt floors are huge source of moisture and soil gases. |
| Are there any white, chalky stains (efflorescence) on the walls or floor? | Provide better drainage and dampproofing to the outside. Efflorescence indicates water evaporation of moisture that has wicked through the foundation wall. | Continued efflorescence is a sign of ongoing moisture problems. |
| Are there any black, white or green mold stains or fuzzy growth on the walls or floor? | Clean up mold according to CMHC guidelines. Remove the sources of moisture. | Some molds are toxic. Clean up must be done carefully to avoid health hazards. |
| Are there any wet or decaying wood windows, sill plates, columns or beam ends in contact with concrete? | Replace decaying wood. Provide a capillary break between wood and concrete. Seek professional advice as damage may compromise structural strength | Wood in contact with concrete will continue to decay and will eventually result in structural problems |
Are floor tiles lifting? Are carpets damp or musty? | Damp concrete causes lifting floor tiles and damp carpets. Improve foundation drainage. Install a polyethylene moisture barrier over the concrete floor as part of a retrofit floor system. Replace carpets with hard surface flooring. | Tiles won't stick to damp floors. Damp carpets will continue to be a haven for dust mites and mold. |
| Is there any wet insulation, framing or moisture damage on finished walls? | Remove wet insulation or finishes. Fix the moisture source before refinishing. | Materials that are wet from any source (leaks, capillary action or condensation) will get moldy and decay, leading to unsightly finishes, durability problems and hazards to health. |
Is there any condensation on windows, pipes or other surfaces? Is the air humid? Ddoes it seem stuffy, damp or smelly? Are basement windows open in Summer? Is a dehumidifier or air conditioning used in summer? Is there any ventilation or air circulation? Is the basement heated the same as the main floors? Does a clothes dryer in the basement exhaust outside, using a minimal length of duct? Is wet laundry hung to dry in the basement? Is firewood stored indoors? | Install energy-efficient windows, insulate cold water pipes and insulate walls (and floors, when possible) to achieve warm surfaces. High humidity plus cold surfaces results in condensation. Keep basements ventilated and heated. In summer, use a portable dehumidifier or air conditioning to reduce humidity. In warm, humid weather, keep basement windows closed. Run the furnace fan continuously to circulate house air. Provide ventilation to get rid of humidity Run dryer exhausts directly outside. Do not hang wet laundry or store firewood inside. | Opening basement windows during warm, humid weather will make basements wetter with no chance to dry out. Adding humidity to already damp basements will only make problems worse. High humidity will result in condensation on cold surfaces. |
| Are there a lot of stored items in the basement? | Get rid of unused items. Store items on shelves. Avoid storing in cardboard boxes that readily absorb moisture. Allow air to circulate. | Too many stored items, especially on the floor, will allow hidden corners to get even wetter and encourage mold growth |
